By Carole Barclay
This
chapel, built on the ruins of an old Roman fort in the 600s, is a place for
contemplation. Though only a mile away from civilisation, this spot on the
Essex coast takes you back to a bygone age when Essex was still a kingdom in
its own right and Christianity was battling against the pagan beliefs of the old
gods of the Anglo-Saxons.
St Peter’s was founded by Cedd, a
monk trained at Lindisfarne in Northumbria, who had been invited to spread the
word by the newly converted King of Essex. In 654 Sigeberht the Good gave Cedd
land inside the ruins of the old Roman fort to build the first monastery in the
East Saxon Kingdom.
The 1km footpath from the car-park in
Bradwell-on-Sea is, in fact, the old Roman road to the Roman fort of Othona.
But little is left apart from a small section of the wall hidden in the undergrowth
because most of it was swept away in a disastrous storm and tidal wave in 1099.
The monastery, built entirely from the stones and bricks taken from the Roman ruins, declined as the population drifted after the storm to what is now Bradwell village. The monastery continued as a chapel-of-ease during Catholic times for peasants working along the bleak coastline far from the parish church in the centre of the village.
The monastery, built entirely from the stones and bricks taken from the Roman ruins, declined as the population drifted after the storm to what is now Bradwell village. The monastery continued as a chapel-of-ease during Catholic times for peasants working along the bleak coastline far from the parish church in the centre of the village.
St Peter’s was dissolved when Henry VIII
broke with the Catholic church in the 16th century. It then sank into obscurity, being used as a
barn until it was restored and reconsecrated as an Anglican chapel in 1920.
What’s left is just the nave of a more
substantial church. The foundations of the long-lost apse, tower and two small
porches are marked out in concrete, and there’s an image on the notice board
inside of what it might have looked like in its heyday.
In the village you can pass by Bradwell
Lodge, an 18th century mansion built on the foundations of a much earlier
Tudor house. There Erskine Childers, the Irish Republican writer who was shot
by the Free Staters in 1922 during the Irish Civil War, wrote the novel The Riddle of the Sands, which was
published in 1903.
The lodge was later owned by Tom Driberg, the
left-leaning Labour MP who pioneered the modern gossip column as “William
Hickey” of the Daily Express; became a friend of Guy
Burgess, the leader of the Soviet ‘Cambridge Spies’ that included Donald
Maclean and Kim Philby, and allegedly peddled tittle-tattle to Soviet and
British intelligence throughout the Cold War!
Bradwell-on-Sea is on the Dengie peninsula
in Essex. It is best approached by car because the nearest train station is 10
miles away at Southminster. There is a regular bus service from Southminster
and a more sporadic service from Maldon.